Some Parting Thoughts

After almost six years, I can finally say I've made my peace with Guatemala City. When I first arrived here in October 2008, I flew into the city, passed one moderately nervous night, and took the first bus out the next morning. I spent the next six months avoiding this place that has always made me so anxious. It was with a good dose of apprehension that I arrived here twelve days ago, but I’m happy to say that I’ve grown far more comfortable than I ever thought I would.

A lot of that has to do with where I’m staying. I was told that zone 2 is actually quite pleasant, and it is. The streets are clean, it’s quiet, and the neighborhood has everything I need. It’s walking distance from the Plaza Mayor and offers a variety of good food and coffee, great coffee. What more could I ask for? My comfort here also has a lot to do with my accommodations. I realized at some point during my grant application for the summer that I could budget for an actual hotel – a hotel! – as opposed to the hostels that I’ve grown so accustomed to. However, the thought of being locked up in a nice quiet room, all by myself in Guatemala City had very little appeal. Instead, I was lucky enough to find La Coperacha: a lovely little hostel in zone 2 that’s just busy enough to prevent me from ever being lonely, but quiet enough that I was able to sleep like a baby the whole time I was here. The great thing about La Coperacha is the people. The staff are friendly and infinitely helpful, the other guests have been sociable and interesting, and there’s a whole little community of neighbors who pass their days and their evenings here, watching the World Cup and sharing the occasional meal. I can’t imagine what my time here would have been without Lucien, Tony, William, and everyone else who has kept me company over the last week and a half.

As for the city itself, it’s not so bad. I’m not saying that it isn’t dangerous, because it is; but like anywhere else, a little common sense goes a long way. Looking out over the city, much of it appears run-down and even ugly, but if you narrow your focus there is beauty to be found. Maybe it’s the one old colonial building, with its peeling paint and wrought iron gates, or maybe it’s the street art that can be found everywhere here. Maybe it’s the flowering trees that line the sidewalks, or the smiling children playing with their mother on the bus. The point is, you just have to look.

The last time I was in Guatemala I traveled far and wide. I saw the jungle, the desert, the mountains and both coasts, but you can’t really know Guatemala without knowing Guate. Even then it’s hard to really know this place at all, but that’s for another post… For now, just know that I’m leaving the city having relinquished the fear that it inspired in me for so long. Adios Guate, y hasta pronto.