A Long Overdue Return

On Thursday I finally made the trip I've been meaning to take for over three years now. When I left Xela (pronounced shay-la)* in April 2009, I thought I'd be back in no more than two years. I'm sorry to say, it took me five.

It's hard for me to put into words what this place means to me. My time spent here was my first experience outside Canada and the US and, not surprisingly, it had a big impact. The thing about Xela is that it's not beautiful, like Antigua, and it doesn't have the perfect climate, like Lago Atitlán. There's just something about Xela. It's a small city of a little over 200,000 inhabitants, located high in the Altiplano, at over 2,300 meters above sea level. The days are pleasantly warm, but the cold nights can be a shock to those who arrive unprepared. Xela is the indigenous capital of Guatemala, with over 60% of its population identifying as Maya. The Mayan population is highly visible, with women wearing their colorful traje (indigenous clothing) all over the city. On Friday, the day after I arrived, the central park was full of men in traje as well - a rare sight ever since indigenous men were targeted by the military during the civil war. You hear the Mayan population as well, speaking Quiche in the markets and on the buses. Xela is the heart of Guatemala, the central hub of the indigenous highlands. For this reason, it is the base for most of the country's NGO's and is thus home to a large and fluid population of volunteer workers, social workers, and human rights workers. It is the main hub for Guatemala's more socially-minded tourists, and a fascinating place to go if you want to get a sense of what really goes on in this country.

I've dreamed of going back to Xela ever since I left, though a small part of me always feared that the magic would somehow be gone. To my relief, it wasn't. The moment I stepped out the door of my hostel (the same place where I lived for three months so long ago) and breathed the (mildly contaminated) mountain air, I felt somehow more alive. The park was buzzing on a Thursday night and I happily wandered for an hour, stopping at various points to see the places that were so familiar to me. To my delight, I even ran into an old friend within moments of stepping out the door. Some things never change.

Most of my friends have left Xela over the last five years, but there are three people there who I wanted to catch up with. I can happily say they are all doing well, working jobs that make them happy, even if they're struggling to get by. I spent two days catching up, sharing meals, drinking coffee, and taking walks in the park. To my delight, I also ran into someone unexpected: a Mexican friend who lived in Hostal Don Diego with me five years ago and returned to Xela for an exhibition of his art. Not only is he enjoying some success as an artist, but he's also three years clean and sober - and happy. Parting with him this morning over breakfast was the perfect end to my short visit.

Like the last time, I'm already plotting my return. Unlike the last time, I swear that it won't take me another five years to get back. I've made that promise to at least two people and I plan to keep it. Xelita linda, nos vemos pronto.


*aka Quetzaltenango, for those of you trying to locate it on a map